WAT DOI KHAO KWAI

Wat Phra That Doi Khao Kwai Kaew is one of Chiang Rai’s more unusual hilltop temples. This is not really a tourist attraction and not one of Chiang Rai's famous temples, but if you are Buddhist then it will be worth a visit.

The temple sits just south of Chiang Rai city and offers a mix of peaceful temple grounds, detailed Lanna-style architecture, city views and one of the most striking mythical creatures you are likely to see in northern Thailand.

From the top, you can look back across Chiang Rai. On a clear day without the usual haze from farmland burn-offs, you can see the surrounding mountains and parts of the city spread out below.

The main buildings feature layered red and gold roofs, carved details, colorful mosaic decoration and traditional northern Thai styling.

The most memorable feature of Wat Doi Khao Kwai is the strange and powerful figure known as the Four-Eared, Five-Eyed creature, or Maeng Si Hu Ha Ta. This legendary being is strongly associated with the temple and is one of the reasons many Thai visitors come here. Its a large statue with a fierce face, several eyes, wide ears and a dramatic open mouth, making it look part guardian, part mythical beast and part local Lanna spirit. According to northern Thai legend, this creature was believed to eat hot charcoal and produce gold.

Because of this story, it became linked with good fortune, wealth and prosperity. Locals often come here to pay respect, make offerings and pray for luck.

You may also be able to receive a prayer blessing from a monk. A donation to help maintain the temple is appreciated.

Expect to stay about an hour to see everything.

The best time to visit would be during a week day so as to avoid weekends when its busier with locals.

Getting to Wat Doi Khao Kwai is easiest by private transport, taxi, or ride-hailing service. A tuk-tuk probably will not make it up to the top because part of the road just before reaching the temple is very steep. The temple is not far from central Chiang Rai city, but it is a good idea to ask the driver to wait or arrange a return pickup because finding transport back down from the hill will not be as easy as finding transport in the city centre.